Pićan Guide

Pićan is a hilltop town in Istria County, Croatia, and it feels like the opposite of the crowded coast. In the high season Istria's seaside fills up with package tourists, while the interior stays unspoiled and dotted with walled hilltop towns. Pićan belongs to that second group, about 12 km southeast of Pazin. Pazin is the administrative seat of Istria County and sits in the geographical centre of the peninsula, with Gračišće and Pićan to its southeast, which tells you how far inland you are.

The land around it is farmed, not staged for visitors. The fertile Čepićko Polje region produces wine, pumpkins and tomatoes, and agriculture and livestock breeding are still the main occupations. So the view from the edge of the old town is of working fields rolling away toward the horizon, which is the real reason to climb up here.

The landmark is the bell tower. It stands apart from the church, rises 48 m, counts as the third highest in Istria and gives a good view over the hills. The church beside it is the Cathedral of the Annunciation of the Blessed Virgin Mary, a grand name for a village and a reminder that Pićan once had its own bishop.

For wider views, head for the two lookouts at opposite ends of town. Franz Ferdinand's Viewpoint looks over the undulating landscape of central Istria. The viewpoint of St. Helena lies at the other end and is named after a church that once stood there. Walking from one to the other takes you across the whole town.

In the park at the entrance you will find a statue of St. John Nepomucene from 1714, with the church of St. Roch right beside it. At the far end, abandoned old houses show rustic lintels and staircases carved into the living rock. They are quiet and a little worn, which suits slow photographs.

If you want more than looking, Istria is a fine region for hiking and biking, inland as well as on the coast, and Pićan fits neatly into a day on foot or by bike. The Our Lady of the Rocks chapel in Beram, in the Pazin area, is known for magnificent frescoes and makes a sensible second stop. Older maps may show the town under its Italian name, Pedena.